Natore Rajbari

After the migration of Jogunath Babu, a piece of land of his belonging was taken by the government and then a Museum was built in here. It is now open 6 days a weak except its weekly holiday, Thursday. It was inaugurated in 2013 by the Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina.

Munshiganj, or Bikrampur as it was formerly known as home to a number of rich landlords and merchants, who lived in palatial houses, built on large estates. Most of these perished in course of time as the mighty Padma River devoured most of Bikrampur. Of all that remain in today’s Munshiganj, the largest is the house at Abdullahpur, known as Tokani Pal House (টোকানী পাল বাড়ি). There isn’t enough source to know about who built this house, but Tokani Pal, an elderly merchant from Barisal, bought this 7 acre estate and moved in here sometime in the early 1890s. His second wife Nabanga Sundary and all six sons from his two marriages accompanied him.

The estate now consists of 11 buildings and six ponds. The sprawling gardens have hundreds of trees – fruit bearing, medicinal, or for wood itself. And there were once several hundreds of flowering plants. But when Tokani arrived, the estate was in a mess. Kamini Pal, the eldest son of Tokani,took charge of cleaning up the estate. He chose a place to set up a temple, dedicated to Radha-Shyam, of whom they had been followers for generations. By this time, the masons of Abdullahpur had made a name in craftsmanship and expertise, and Arfan Ostagar was the most revered of all. He was hired, for a daily fee of five quarters and a pack of tobacco. His designer had to be paid an additional three quarters. A 15X6 feet room was planned to build, with a wide sprawling varanda, where followers could sing devotional songs every evening. The room would have a large platform, on which would rest a large metal statue of Radha-Shyam. The exterior wall would be decorated with fine ceramic designs. Once completed, the temple became a marvel, people from far and wide came over to see.

The Pal’s principal business was surrounded around the Kamala river port of Bikrampur, which was known as the Second Kolkata. Betelnuts, mustard, lentils etc would arrive from Barisal or Chandpur, and would be traded with Kolkata. Almost 20,000 laborers worked daily at this port, where the second largest wholesalers were the Pals. They set up warehouses at places as far as Barisal, Jhalokathhi or Shwarupkathhi, or Chandpur. Kamini Pal also became the most prominent money-lender. Dwarkanath became a prominent dealer in Kerosene oil. Other brothers also chipped in here and there. Business for the Pals was running well.

After the Partition of India, a large section of the family moved to Kolkata. Those who remained to protect the family businesses, soon found it difficult, as business with Kolkata became complicated. They had to explore new business avenues, but that wasn’t too easy.

In 1971, Hindus were being tortured or killed, their businesses were being shut down, their houses were being torched. The Pal estate being protected with a strong high boundary wall became a safe refuge, not only for members of this family, but for members of extended families, and also for friends and their families. About 500 people had found safe shelter here, until one dark night, when the Pakistani Army entered the compounds, killed several family members, and set the main houses of fire. The entire clan moved to India through Agartala.

Almost two years later, Shashadhar Pal, the second son of Dwarkanath Pal, who by then was head of the clan, returned with his family. But by this time major parts of the estate had been grabbed and taken over by others. He tried to revive some of the businesses, but did not quite succeed. His family members went back to Kolkata, but he decided to stay back, reminiscing his childhood memories, and gradually selling off part of their properties. He lived either in one of the houses within this estate, or in the other Pal House, which also was built by his uncle Kamini Pal several decades ago. He passed away in the late 1990s.

To visit the Mausoleum of Bongobondhu, it is not that much comfortable. You have to use several poor local bus services on our way. Local bus of Narail isn't that much comprehensive, but it is awesome at Gopalganj. The highway is smooth and wide enough, and has lot of spaces, even inside the local bus either. From Gopalganj, to visit this place, you need to go to Tungipara.

Bus journey from town to Tungipara is about 30-35 minutes. For your information, it doesn't require any ticket to visit the mausoleum. You can observe the display gallery that is having lot of photos of Bongobondhu from different occasions and times. It is probably a gallery and library together. It has an open stage with an 'audience gallery' beside the library.

It requires to go through a long path from the gallery to the grave. The grave is covered under a nicely designed structure. Everyone is allowed to enter inside the structure, but not allowed to take any photographs.

After exploring everything around, you can return from there and come outside to have foods. There are several fast food shops which basically sell the Chotpoti and Fuchka. There is a vast paddy field beside that area.

আজ সকালে এসএম সুলতানের সমাধিসৌধ দেখে দীর্ঘপথ পাড়ি দিয়ে আমরা গোপালগঞ্জ জেলায় পৌছাই। যাত্রাপথটি মোটেও আরামদায়ক ছিল না কারন আমাদের কয়েক দফায় কয়েকটি পুরাতন লোকাল বাসে চড়তে হয়েছিল। নড়াইলের লোকাল বাসগুলোর মান ভাল না হলেও গোপালগঞ্জের লোকাল বাসগুলোর মান ছিল বেশ উন্নত। মহাসড়কটি যেমন চওড়া এবং আরামদায়ক ছিল তেমনি বাসের ভেতরেও পর্যাপ্ত জায়গা ছিল। গোপালগঞ্জে কোর্ট মসজিদ ঘুরে দেখার পর আমরা টুঙ্গিপাড়ায় বঙ্গবন্ধুর সমাধিসৌধর উদ্দেশ্যে যাত্রা করি।

গোপালগঞ্জ শহর থেকে বাসে করে ৩০ মিনিট থেকে ৩৫ মিনিটের মধ্যে আমরা টুঙ্গিপাড়ায় পৌঁছে যাই। শনিবার হওয়াতে রাস্তা যেমন খালি ছিল তেমনি সমাধিসৌধতেও কোন ভিড় ছিল না। মনে হচ্ছিল যেন সমাধিসৌধতে আমরাই একমাত্র দর্শনার্থী যদিও কিছুক্ষন পর কয়েকজন দর্শনার্থী আমাদের সাথে যোগ দেন। বিশাল এলাকার উপর অবস্থিত সমাধিসৌধতে সেসময় মাত্র পাঁচ থেকে ছয়জন পর্যটক উপস্থিত ছিলেন।

আকাশে মেঘ থাকলেও দিনটি ছিল রৌদ্রোজ্জ্বল তাই সবকিছু ভাল করে দেখা যাচ্ছিল। সমাধিসৌধে ঢুকতে কোন প্রবেশমূল্য দিতে হয়না। সমাধিসৌধে প্রবেশের পর ২০ মিনিট থেকে ৩০ মিনিট বৃষ্টি হওয়াতে আমাদের একটি ছাদের নীচে আশ্রয় নিতে হয়েছিল। এরপর আমরা সমাধি সৌধের প্রদর্শনী গ্যালারি ঘুরে দেখি যেখানে বঙ্গবন্ধুর জীবনের বিভিন্ন সময়ের ছবি প্রদর্শন করা হচ্ছে। এখানে একটি পাঠাগারও রয়েছে। পাঠাগারের পাশেই দর্শক গ্যালারিসহ একটি উন্মুক্ত মঞ্চ রয়েছে।

গ্যালারি থেকে বঙ্গবন্ধুর কবরের দূরত্ব বেশি হওয়ায় আমরা বৃষ্টি থামার পর সেদিকে রওনা হই। চমৎকার স্থাপত্য দিয়ে কবরটিকে আবৃত করে রাখা হয়েছে। এসময় কয়েকজনকে পবিত্র কোরআন শরীফ তেলাওয়াত করতে দেখা যায়। কবরের কাছে সবার যাওয়ার অনুমতি থাকলেও এখানে ছবি তোলা নিষেধ।

সমাধিসৌধ দেখার পর সেখানে অবস্থিত কিছু চটপটি এবং ফুচকার দোকানে আমরা কিছুক্ষনের জন্য অবস্থান করি। আমাদের সাথে ভাংতি টাকা না থাকায় আমরা কয়েক রকমের স্ন্যাক্স কিনেছিলাম যাতে করে টাকা ভাঙ্গানোর পাশাপাশি একটু বিশ্রামও নেয়া যায়। সমাধিসৌধের পাশেই একটি বিশাল ধানক্ষেত রয়েছে। বর্ষাকাল হওয়াতে ধানক্ষেতটি পানির নীচে ছিল। সেসময় আকাশ মেঘে পরিপূর্ণ ছিল এবং চমৎকার বাতাস বইছিল। এখানে আরও কিছুক্ষন থাকার ইচ্ছা থাকলেও পরবর্তী গন্তব্যে অর্থাৎ আড়পাড়া মুন্সীবাড়িতে যাওয়ার কারনে আমাদের সেই সুযোগ ছিল না।

Dhamrai Jagannath Roth ( ধামরাই জগন্নাথ রথ) is a chariot temple, Dhamrai Rath Yatra is dedicated to the Hindu God Jagannath located in Dhamrai Upazila of Dhaka District. The annual Jagannath Roth Jatra is a famous Hindu festival attracting thousands of people. Dhamrai Rath Yatra is one of the most important event for the Hindu community of Bangladesh. Sri Jagannath (Lord of the World) is believed to be the incarnation of Lord Vishnu, one among the Holy Hindu Trinity of Gods (Brahma-The Creator, Vishnu-The Preserver, and Shiva-The Destroyer). Lord Jagannath is also believed to be the deity form of Lord Krishna.

For the thousands of Hindu devotees, it is considered a pious deed and the huge processions accompanying the chariots play devotional songs with drums, tambourines, trumpets etc. A glimpse of Lord Jagannath on the chariot is considered to be very auspicious and saints, poets and scriptures have repeatedly glorified the sanctity of this special festival. The sanctity of the festival is such that even a touch of the chariot or even the ropes with which these are pulled is considered enough to confer the results of several pious deeds or penance for ages.

History:

According to the unpublished documents, Oral history and records it seems that the Dhamrai Roth is about 400 years old tradition living among the Local Hindus. By studying those records, it can be assumed that from 1179 to 1204 (Bangla Year) (corresponding to 1672 to 1697 AD), the Roth that was in existence, made with bamboos. It is, however, not known that how this Bamboo-made Roth was replaced by the one that of wood. The unpublished sources mentioned that, in between 1204 to 1340 (Bangla Year), the Zamindars (Feudal Land lords) of Baliati (now located in Saturia Upazila) had four ‘Roth’s made and they provided all the expenses for its construction.

The carpenters of Dhamrai, Kaliakoir, Saturia and Singair jointly worked to make a Roth which was 60 feet in height and 45 feet wide which was completed in 1340 BS, corresponding to 1933 AD. The newly constructed Roth was 3-storied. Each of the first and second floors had four chambers at the four corners and one chamber on the top floor. These chambers or rooms were called ‘Noborotno’s. The Roth had 32 giant wooden wheels and was adorned with two wooden horses in front as well as carvings and paintings of Hindu deities. Thick ropes made with about 1000 kilograms of jute fiber were used to pull the Roth along.

As it was being pulled people lining up the street and on roof-tops would shower bananas and sugar on the Roth amidst cheers and chanting. After the abolition of ‘jamindari’ system in 1950, Ray Bahadur Ranada Prosad Shaha of Mirzapur, Tangail extended extensive support and financial assistance for the upkeep, maintenance of the Roth, and for hosting of the event with pomp and grandeur. This support continued until 1970 under the auspices of Kumudini Welfare Trust which was formed by Mr. R. P. Saha.

Current Roth (Chariot): 

In the year 2006 Mrs. Bina Sikri, the then Indian High Commissioner to Bangladesh pledged to provide financial assistance in building a new Roth. Consequently, a 3-storied Roth was built in 2010. The new Roth is 27 feet long and of the same width; it has 15 wheels and is adorned with statues of different gods and goddesses. A Roth Committee of local people of Dhamrai with Mr. Rajib Saha, the son of Mr. R.P. Saha, as the chief Patron, have been organizing and holding this yearly gala event.

The journey of the Roth begins from the Madhabbari Temple to the Gope Nagar Temple, regarded to be the In-Laws house, a distance of about half a kilometer away. During the festival, devotees help pull the Roth with ropes and brought to the Gope Nagar temple. After one week the Chariot is pulled back to Madhab Mandir again which is termed as “Ulto Roth” (উলটো রথ) - Return Journey.