Hazrat Sayed Shah Rasti (R) Mazar & Mosque

Chowk Bazar Shahi Mosque also known as Chowk Mosque is one of the oldest Mosques in Dhaka. It is located in the Chowk Bazar area of the old town of Dhaka, south to the current city center.

The mosque was constructed in 1676 by Subahdar Shayesta Khan (সুবাহদার শায়েস্তা খান). It is called ‘Shahi Mosque’ as it is founded by Subahdar Shayesta Khan. The mosque is built above a raised platform. The three domed mosque above the platform, now transformed into a multi-storied structure was originally a copy of Shayesta Khan's another three domed mosque at the Mitford Hospital compound near the Buriganga River. Some square shaped rooms may be built for Imam and for students of the Madrashah. As a result of several renovation & reconstruction work, this mosque has lost its ancient original view.

History: This Mosque was constructed in 1676, as noted by an inscription in the Persian language over a gateway. The inscription attributes the project to Subahdar Shaista Khan. So far, this is known as the earliest dated mosque in the History of Muslim Architecture in Bengal, built on a high vaulted platform. Its architectural design was perhaps influenced by Tughlaq Architectures; such as Khirki Masjid or Kalan Mosque of Delhi. Influenced by this structure, some other mosques were built in Dhaka and Murshidabad.

Architectural Properties: The western half of the 3.05 meter high vaulted platform (28.65 meter from north to south and 24.38 meter from east to west) is occupied by the original three-domed mosque. It measures, inclusive of the four octagonal towers on the exterior angles, 16.15 meter by 7.92 meter. There are three four-centered archways in the east, all opening out under half-domed vaults. The half-domed vault of the central archway still contains beautiful Muqarnas works in stucco.

Corresponding to the three eastern entrances, there are three Mihrabs inside the west wall, all now redesigned. The central mihrab still has a semi-octagonal aperture, while its flanking counterparts are rectangular in design. The mihrabs are now all studded with lustrous pieces of enamel. The rectangular frames enclosing the mihrabs are now topped by rows of painted cresting. The floor of the mosque is now laid with marble.

Three bays divides interior view of this Mosque- the central one square shaped and the side ones are rectangular. All these bays were covered with domes, the central one being bigger than its flanking counterparts. This can be deduced from the newly built three-domed prayer chamber exactly above the original one, where the central dome has been kept larger than the side ones.

Very uniquely designed and Space utilized Madrasa & Mosque: The promenade around the three domed prayer chamber, since there was no separate structure for study purpose, might have been used for open-air classes and the vaulted room with book-shelves on their walls underneath the platform may have been designed to provide residential accommodation for those who used to teach and study here. In that perspective, Chawk Mosque may be regarded as the first known example of Residential Madrasa Mosque.

It is an ingenious way of accommodating two structures-a madrasa and a mosque in a single building which not only saved space but also a considerable amount of money.

In every single part of Bangladesh there are some Archaeological & Historical remains, which has enriched our cultural history. Lack of awareness and proper knowledge in common people results in gradual ruining of many Historical & Archaeological sites in our country.

One of the great example of deteriorations of an Archaeological site in Narsingdi district is ‘Single domed Mosque and Tomb of Shah Mansur’ located at Kumradi, Shibpur upazila.

It was built in eighteenth century by a Muslim saint named Shah Mansur. In course of time, the existence of the mosque is totally replaced by a new built Madrasa. But, still now the remaining of ‘Tomb of Shan Mansur’ is existing, although it is hard to assume how the original structure was.

Architectural Property and Layout:

Tomb of Shah Mansur, A massive structure which is architecturally rich and decorated with different kinds of design. It is in rectangular shape and built in very unique way. In the western wall of this building there are five arch shaped entrance, among them middle one is open and decorated with multi foil design. Others are Closed arch & also contains the same design like the opened one. The southern side of the tomb is severely disturbed, broken and ruined. Main entrance of the tomb is totally vanished, but still we can observe some three archways very close to the grave of Shah Mansur. It seems like there are two grave inside the building. We assume that other grave might be Shah Mansur’s wife.

There is another unique structure situated in the southern side of the tomb. It is just a square shaped Minar containing open space inside of it, in the roof top it contains a bulbous shaped dome. It has four arch shaped ways in four brick wall.

In the most eastern part of this tomb there is a large pond. Which is probably same years old as the tomb is.

Myth related to this Structure:

There are several myths interrelated with this feature. People say that Shah Mansur used to pet a tiger inside of square shaped structure which is situated in the eastern side of the tomb. Although, It’s a myth but it contains some evidences which might prove it true. Inside of this square shaped structure there are two iron’s ring attached with brick wall.

And it is also said, Once there were some big fishes in the pond. Local people believe that, those fish were actually cursed human being and for this reason they buried those death fish in a grave yard near to Pond.

Present Condition and Immediate Conservation Issue:

Present condition of the features situated in this complex is in very sensitive condition. One domed Mosque built by Shah Mansur is vanished and a new Madrasa replacing it. The tomb of Shah Mansur is near to destruction. The whole brick building contains several banyan tree and different species of trees.
The unique square shaped Minar is also near to ruin. Beside this structure there is bathroom built very recently for Madrasa students.

Immediate steps should be taken to conserve and preserve these features from its deterioration.

Chamchika Mosque is a very old and beautiful mosque which was made by copying chamchika mosque in India. This is near the Khania dighi, also called Khania Dighi Masjid. Chamchika Mosque is located in Shahabazpur Upazila of Chapai Nawabganj.

Walipur Alamgiri Mosque is situated in Walipur village under Hajiganj Upazila of Chandpur district. There are two mosques in the same locality - one known as Shahi Alamgiri Mosque and the other as Shah Shuja Mosque. The Alamgiri mosque has suffered much due to subsequent restoration works. Nevertheless, enough still survives to give an idea of its original plan and design. A Persian inscription in fine nastaliq character, fixed over the central doorway, records the construction of the mosque by one Abdullah in 1692 AD in the reign of Alamgir Aurangzeb.

In the middle of the eastern facade of the oblong mosque (15.24 m by 8.23 m) there is a projected fronton bordered with octagonal turrets through which opens out the main doorway. This has a higher arch with a half-dome within a rectangular frame. There are two more doorways in the eastern facade, one on either side of the central opening, having an outer arch with a half-dome below. Each of the north and south walls is pierced with a pair of arched doorways. The mosque has therefore seven archways in total -three in the east and two on each of the north and south walls. The four exterior angles of the building are strengthened by octagonal towers, which are carried beyond the horizontal parapets and topped over with kalasa finials, but have now been renovated.

Two massive octagonal brick pillars divide the interior of the mosque into five square bays - a large one in the middle (5.87m a side) and two smaller ones on its either side which are arranged in the east-west axis. Archways interconnect the bays; the arches are placed directly on two free standing octagonal pillars and engaged semi-octagonal pillars. It is worth noting that these arches are continued upwards as walls to make the bays above. This special device has given the mosque a two-storied appearance internally. All the five bays are roofed over with domes crowned with lotus and kalasa finials on cylindrical drums. The domes are carried on half-domed squinches on the upper corners and the blocked arches in between the square inches in the middle of the walls.

Octagonal turrets rising high above the horizontal parapets border the outside projection of the central mihrab, like that of the central archway. Inside, there are three mihrabs in the qibla wall. The central mihrab is semi-octagonal in design, but the flanking mihrabs are of the shallow rectangular type.

The original plastering of the building has been replaced by modern cement plaster. The horizontal parapet is now plain. The facade of the central archway projection is marked with shallow rectangular panels, each being further enriched with such motifs as plants and small trees with flowers in stucco. The central mihrab arch springs from beautifully decorated pilasters and has foliaged designs at its spandrels. The rectangular frame of the central mihrab, though now barely plain, is topped over with a frieze of blind merlons. A fine specimen of Mughal stucco ornamentation is still preserved in the squinches and blocked arches in between, which support the domes above. The extrados of the squinch arches and blocked arches are ornamented with interlocking scrolls, while the tympanums of the blocked arches are minutely embellished with floral scrolls with intertwining rosettes in the centers. Above them all round the interior base of the cylindrical drum runs a slightly sunken frieze decorated with floral scrolls.

Five-domed type mosque, one of the important varieties of Bengal mosques, shows two sub-types: (a) a mosque with a large central dome and a pair of small domes on each side in the same line and (b) a mosque with a large central dome and four small domes on the corners. The present mosque is the culminating example of the second variety. Both in planning and in the execution of elevation details of the building, the architect and the artisans have left behind a clear mark of their skills and perfection of ideas. The division of the interior of the mosque into five squares has been very scientifically effected by the disposition of two octagonal short massive freestanding pillars instead of the two east-west wide arches of the previous examples of the series. Mosques on this model were not built in Bengal for a long time, but almost two centuries later the type reappeared in the Becharam Dewri Mosque (1872) in the city of Dhaka. In plan Becharam Dewri Mosque is an exact copy of the Alamgiri Mosque but inferior in quality and elevation details.

Such mosque design in Bengal started with austagram mosque and evolved through the sarail mosque and the Walipur Alamgiri Mosque. The design is really unique. Question may now arise as to the origin of this particular kind of Bengal mosques. In Turkey under the early Ottomans the mosque of Rustam Celebi (c first half of the 15th century) at Tokat provides perhaps the earliest known example of its kind with five domes - the large central one and a small one on four corners. Similar plan is also found in such other Ottoman mosques as the Guzelce Hasan Bey Mosque (1406) in Hayrabolu and the Uc Serefeli Cam (1437-47) at Edirne. These mosques are generally regarded as the precursors of the great Ottoman mosques at Istambul - Bayezid mosque (1501-06), Sulaymaniya Mosque (1550-59), and the beautiful Selimya Mosque (1569-75) at Edirne. The five-roomed or five-domed planning of the Ottoman mosques may perhaps be said to have been dictated by those of some early Muslim buildings of Syria.

In India the Jamat Khana Mosque (1310-16) at Delhi is a lone example of its kind. This mosque design continued to have been practiced in Northern India in an elaborated form in Humayun's Mosque (1530) at Agra, where four small domed-rooms, instead of two, are attached on either side of the large central domed chamber. It may, therefore, be said that the plan of the second variety of the five-domed type mosques in Bengal was not innovated by Bengal architects, and its idea is very likely to have been borrowed from the sources stated above, particularly perhaps from those of Turkey or Upper India.

Written by: MA Bari